Every kitchen looks better with handmade wooden accessories, and these cheese boards are a great way to add the warmth of wood to your kitchen. In the image below, the board on the left uses birch and hickory with walnut accent strips. The board on the right uses red gum and walnut with wenge accent strips. All boards are finished with food safe mineral oil and a food safe wax compound. These two cheese boards in particular are already spoken for but I’ll have more available soon in the StuffSethMakes Etsy shop.
Not only would handmade cheeseboards like these look great in your home, but a batch of them would also be a classy touch at your artisan bakery to display your fresh treats! Or maybe you need some of these boards at your winery for wine and cheese tastings. Anywhere you’ve got quality food (bars, gastro pubs), these boards will be a great addition. If you’re a caterer and you need a way to deliver hor d’oeuvres during the cocktail hour at a wedding or other social gathering, these serving boards are perfect.
I’ll be restocking my Etsy shop as soon as a new batch of boards are ready. I will have more in this shape but other shapes are coming also. If you’re interested in ordering multiple boards please contact me for pricing. Thanks for stopping by and be sure to follow StuffSethMakes on Instagram for the play-by-play 🙂
I recently had the opportunity to attend the Jory Brigham Design Workshop in Paso Robles, California. If you aren’t familiar with Jory Brigham’s furniture you definitely need to check out his website. His pieces are unique and creative and he uses a variety of skills and techniques in his work. His style may not be everybody’s cup of tea, but when you see Jory’s work you know it’s Jory’s work and I was immediately drawn to it the first time I came across it a couple years ago. When I started my @stuffsethmakes Instagram account, I think Jory was one of the first people I started following. Fast forward a bit and SpikeTV launches a furniture building reality show called Framework and as I watched the first episode I realized, “hey, I think I follow that guy Jory on Instagram“. You can see the Framework series trailer here:
After the first couple episodes, it was pretty clear Jory would be the one to beat and of course (spoiler alert) he went on to win the whole thing. Fast forward a little bit more and Jory makes the announcement that he’ll be offering a furniture building course at his new workshop in Paso Robles, CA. The course promises to offer a hands-on furniture building experience, using some of Jory’s favorite tools and techniques to build a piece of furniture designed by Jory Brigham himself, specifically for the course. Since we’re in Paso Robles frequently to visit family, this sounded like something I needed to do but with a $1500 price tag I couldn’t do it right away. So I waited as a few courses came and went, and I watched in envy as other Instagram users would post the occasional pic of their time at the Jory Brigham Design Workshop.
Finally I decided to bite the bullet and consider the $1500 an investment towards what could potentially be my future career. I’m currently a very full time wedding photographer with my amazing wife, and while it’s been very good to us, it’s not something I see us doing forever and over the last few years I’ve found that creating something with my own two hands to be very rewarding and I enjoy doing it very much. I still have a long way to go before this can ever be a full time career but hey, Rome wasn’t built in a day.
Fast forward again and it’s finally time to head up to Paso Robles for two and a half very full days of learning and building. For the most part, the wood we’d be using (black walnut) had already been cut into manageable sizes for us to work with, so we weren’t milling down totally rough lumber. The milling of the rough lumber is something most of us in the class were probably skilled enough to do, but it was a good time saver to have it already prepped. Jory uses a lot of MDF templates for his pieces and after a brief run down on template making and usage, we were off and running and the legs of our end tables quickly started taking shape.
I’ve had a little bit of practice with MDF templates prior to taking this course, but they were only on some small sized projects. Using templates for larger pieces of furniture like this is incredibly effective and makes cutting identical pieces a breeze. Between the template, a router and the bandsaw I had my table legs cut out in no time flat and the next step was routing the inner and outer edges of the legs. I chose to do a 45-degree chamfer on the outside edges and a simple roundover on the inside edges, and I really liked how it looked. We used the Festool Dominoto join the 3 table legs. If you’re any sort of woodworker at all, you know about the Festool Domino but if you’re like me, you may not have had the opportunity to use one. They’re all the rage and now having used one, I can see why. They’re easy to use and make assembling your work a pretty quick and accurate process. This is definitely a tool that is going high on my wish list, and someday when I save up a million dollars I’m going to buy one!
The next step was cutting down our black walnut panels to make the main box/cabinet. Once again, I had the opportunity to use a tool that’s been on my radar and that would be the Sawstop table saw. Sawstop is another big popular name in woodworking, and of course it’s another tool that comes with a hefty price tag. Since I seriously need (but can’t afford) a table saw upgrade, I was eager to run some wood through the Sawstop. I loved it, and I could feel the sturdiness of this saw. I could tell by turning the wheels to raise and lower the blade and simply moving the fence back and forth that this thing is heavy duty and would handle whatever we threw at it. A few miter cuts later and I was ready to assemble my box, with the help of the Festool Domino of course. Once assembled, my miters were tight and the grain in the wood flowed seamlessly in one direction around the whole box. Very nice! We finished off the box with a rear panel and once again I chose to chamfer the rear edges to compliment the chamfers I routed on the legs earlier. This thing was coming together nicely!
The drawer box was simple and came together nice and square with some rabbet joints. Nothing new, but Jory has this down to a science and we were able to make our cuts quickly and the drawer box assembly was a snap. Assembling the drawer boxes included routing out a couple notches for the Blum undermount soft-close drawer glides. I’d never used these before but they were a pretty easy installation and I wouldn’t mind using them again on a future project.
Mounting the main box to the legs was the next step and again, a pretty simple task that used a little template Jory made. When mounting the legs you can mount them so there’s one leg in front and two in the rear or vice versa. I chose the latter (I think we might have all done it this way) and went with the two in front and one in the rear. I imagined doing it this way would give it more stability if there was stuff in the drawer and the drawer were fully open but after getting the piece home and playing with it a bit, I felt like maybe I should have chosen to do the one leg in front and two in the rear. I noticed that if I pulled the drawer open kind of quickly, the whole unit could tip forward, so maybe having the weight of two legs in the rear might have been better after all. I also have it sitting on carpet for the time being, so that might be part of the problem too. Anyway, not a big deal. Moving on!
Once the legs were attached and we had given everything a good sanding with the Festool Rotex Sander (as well as a lot of hand sanding) it was time to apply some finish. I’ve become more familiar with using a good coat of Danish oil and maybe a clear coat or two, but since Festool is such a prominent name is Jory’s shop, we were introduced to Festool’s SurFix oil. This stuff is interesting. It has the look and consistency of mayonnaise and you just wipe it on and rub it into the wood. Then it gets buffed out with the green pads and you’re pretty much all set. Then it was on to the real hero of this piece, and that’s the cove cut drawer faces.
Cove cutting is nothing new, and you can certainly find plenty of articles and how-to videos online. In fact, Jory has a great video out there and you can see that video here:
Cove cutting is typically used to create custom moulding but you can certainly use the technique on all kinds of projects, and in this case we’re using it to make the drawer faces. Once again, our drawer face blanks were already milled up for us but one down side of the course is that we did not actually get to cut the coves ourselves. I’m sure it’s a safety and liability thing and all that, but I think all of us taking the course (at least in this particular class) were experienced enough at using a table saw to where we could handle the cove cutting. Plus, we all signed waivers so it was a bit of a bummer that we didn’t get the experience of cutting the coves ourselves. But Jory made quick work of a couple starter cuts and then we thought about how we wanted the other cove cuts to look and he proceeded to cut them for us. You can really get creative here, but for the sake of getting it done and not messing up my drawer face, I chose to keep my design fairly simple. I’ve got some projects lined up at home that I’ll try cove cutting with, and I’m really looking forward to experimenting with the various heights and angles to achieve some unique and interesting shapes. But anyway, once Jory cut my coves I had a chance to use a Kutzall Shaping Disc to add a little more detail to the handle area of my drawer face. I’ve seen these used a lot lately and have been wanting to try one. They are awesome and with a little practice you can really do some cool stuff. Just like with my cove patterns I kept my usage pretty simple and subtle but again, I’m definitely looking forward to using the Kutzall wheel more in the coming year…and keeping my knuckles clear of the wheel. Don’t ask me how I know, haha! After all this cutting and carving I had a lot of sanding to do and once that was done I gave it an application of the Festool SurFix oil. You can see Jory using the Kutzall wheels in his video here:
Now came what proved to be the trickiest part (for me anyway) and that was the task of attaching the drawer face to the drawer. It sounds easy enough but for some reason I was having a hard time getting the drawer face to stay where I wanted it. We used double sided tape to stick the face where we wanted it (my gaps all around were evenly spaced) but every time I pulled the drawer out to mount the face with screws, it shifted ever so slightly and then wouldn’t close properly. 4 attempts later and it’s at an okay spot. I think I’ll still tweak it a bit in my own workshop at home but I’m wondering if the Blum drawer slides have anything to do with it. They seem to have a significant amount of side to side wiggle so I’ll give it a closer look and hopefully I’ll get it dialed in.
On the third day, I ended up with a piece of furniture I’m pretty proud of and even though I can’t take credit for the main design of the end table, I can take credit for building it. As I mentioned before, the techniques used in the course aren’t necessarily new or groundbreaking but the opportunity to try some of them was new to me. It was great to see these techniques in action as opposed to just watching somebody do them in a YouTube video or blog article. It was also great to use some of the high end tools and machinery that I can’t afford right now. A lot of people have already been asking me about the course and complimenting the piece I came home with. Of course, the main question that I’ve been getting is…..
Was It Worth The Price? I guess my answer to this question would have to be…..”it depends!” haha. If you’re still new to woodworking and aren’t really familiar with woodworking machinery like table saws, band saws, routers, etc, this course might be a bit over your head at the moment and you’ll probably want to get some more experience with some of the basics first. If you’re tired of building furniture out of pallet wood and home depot lumber and you want to take the quality of your work to the next level, then yes, absolutely do a Jory course. That was kind of where I was at with it and I think it helped breathe new life into my creativity and was great a stepping stone as I continue to build my new career. While I can certainly appreciate the pallet wood scene, and use rustic wood in a project every now and then, my goal is to find my own unique style and build high quality pieces I can be very proud of. Like I said before, reaching this goal isn’t going to happen overnight. This is going to take some time, a lot of practice, a lot of trial and error and most likely a lot of money. But it’s something I can see myself doing for a very long time and I look forward to the journey. When my wife and I started our photography business over a decade ago, one of the first things we did was take a course to learn some techniques about using a wireless flash. That was one of the best things we did and I believe I’m going to feel the same way about taking the Jory Brigham Design Workshop.
The following YouTube clip is just a simple slideshow of the photos and video clips I took with my phone during the workshop, and includes a couple clips of the cove cutting technique and also an extra concrete spraying demonstration Jory did while we waited for some glue to dry 🙂
The following photos are my “finished product” photos I shot once I got home. Hopefully the photos are worthy of the end table 🙂
I had the opportunity to use a lot of great quality tools and you can use the following links (click on an image) to jump out to Amazon to see more info on each tool:
I hope you found this blog entry to be helpful, especially if you’re considering taking the course. If you do decide to take the course, I think you’ll have a great experience. I sure did. It’s been about a week since the course and I’m already trying out some of the things I learned and I can’t wait to use them on some projects this coming year.
Feel free to comment here on the blog. If you have any direct questions please email me using my contact page. Thanks for stopping by, see you in the shop!
A couple years ago, my wife and I had the opportunity to buy a 13foot 1987 Scamp Travel Trailer. If you’re not familiar with Scamp Trailers, they’re a fun, cute, lightweight option if you want to get out and do some camping. We were pulling it with a 4-cylinder Subaru Outback with no problem. As you can see from the “before” photos, this Scamp trailer needed a lot of love. Fortunately, the body itself was pretty decent so we really only had to focus most of the attention on the interior.
This trailer’s previous owner took it out for local fishing trips, but I have no idea how long it had been since it’s last trip. When we saved it, it looked as if it was starting to be used as storage for both junk and dirt, haha! The front window had a couple small cracks along the bottom and as we drove it up the freeway, the wind pressure spread those cracks quickly! The rear window was actually solid glass, which is definitely a no-no on a Scamp. Furthermore, the rear glass window had a huge spider web shaped crack/shatter and the weight of the glass had sagged it down so the rubber seal was all messed up and the duct tape used to “fix” it was crusty and falling off. It was clear that the windows would need to be the first thing to get replaced. We could have purchased new plexiglass windows directly from the Scamp Parts Store, but they would have been clear and we knew we wanted the windows to be dark tinted so we headed over to Ridout Plastics in Kearny Mesa and picked up some dark tinted plexiglass sheets that we’d have to cut down to size. Cutting out the window shapes wasn’t too difficult, but installing them was a pain in the butt!! We used the appropriate beading and lockstrip with the appropriate tool and it was very difficult…even with the baby oil trick. But we finally got it in place and gave it a thin clean application of black RTV silicone sealer around the edges just for some added leak protection.
Next was the 4-pin wire harness. When we plugged the trailer into the harness on our Subaru (the Subaru harness had just recently been installed new) the marker lights, brake lights and blinkers on the Scamp were all messed up. I hit the brakes and the right turn signal blinks….I hit the left turn signal and all the marker lights blink. Everything was out of whack. We found a pretty simple wiring diagram over at eTrailer.com and decided to simply rip out all the old wiring and install brand new wiring. This also allowed us to update all the new marker lights and brake lights to LED and when they were done, those lights are nice and bright! You should definitely update your lights to LED.
We also replaced a few other stock Scamp items here and there, and those were relatively easy to do. Then came the interior. As you can see, the kitchen was totally gross, the lights are all old and original with parts missing, the front bench was cracked, the carpet was super nasty and to me, that spelled “fun project”! I’ll give you more details on all the updates if you scroll down to the “after” photos.
The first thing a lot of people notice is that storage box on the tongue of the Scamp. I built this from scratch using wood and some vinyl sheet product. After drilling holes to feed the wires and gas line, I coated the underside of the storage box with a resin product to protect it from the elements when driving. The storage box worked out perfectly and it was used to hold and secure the propane tank and the battery, and there was still extra space to store other items like chocks, bungees, a tarp, etc.
You can also see how nice the new tinted plexiglass windows look and to make sure that front window didn’t get damaged by freeway rocks, I added the rock guard from Scamp.
Inside the Scamp I tossed the original dining table and replaced it with a new one. The new table is 3/4″ maple plywood stained with a dark walnut stain. I used the original table as the template and then attached some trim (also stained dark walnut) around the edge to hide the plywood edges. The table was finished with a couple coats of satin clear.
The Scamp got all brand new 4-inch thick foam from UFO in Vista. Since I don’t know anything about sewing, I had my wife jump in and sew some covers for everything using a super cool and modern Nate Berkus print. I love how it looks!
The kitchen area got a complete overhaul as well. I modified and installed an IKEA countertop that extends all the way to the front of the Scamp. This gives extra counter space to put a toaster oven or coffee maker….or both! I also used the scrap from the IKEA counter to use as a short backsplash, and a whiteboard-type product as a backsplash on the kitchen wall. I kept the original sink, but got rid of the pump-style faucet and installed a regular faucet instead. Since we got rid of the water tank (it was gross and nasty) we weren’t planning on using it anyway, and I installed a pressure-regulating city water inlet on the outside of the Scamp. Finally, I installed a new stainless 2-burner cooktop and it looks much much better than the beat up old tan original one, haha!
If you’re familiar with Scamp trailers, you may also be familiar with the original black twisty support bars. I don’t like them and I wanted to change it out to something more unique. To accomplish this, I took some real walnut wood made a chevron pattern support piece. You may notice some colored pieces inlaid into the chevron. Those are pieces of an old skateboard sandwiched between the walnut. As a former skateboarder I felt this was a cool unique personal touch.
I modified the kitchen cabinet area by adding two tilt-down drawers (immediately beneath the sink and cooktop) for silverware, etc. I also modified the large undersink cabinet door. Originally it was two narrow vertical doors, but I removed the center post and made it one large door instead. Everything got new satin nickel hinges and black knobs. I also made all the cabinet doors from scratch so they’d match. The original cabinet doors are this weird fiberboard material with a woodgrain graphic detail. I decided to make all the new cabinet doors in a shaker style.
Another update I’m very proud of is the rebuild/replacement of the front bench. As I mentioned before, the original front bench was fiberglass and was cracked in the middle. The door on the original bench always got caught on the floor when trying to open it and it was a real hassle to deal with. I decided to rebuild the front bench from scratch out of wood and I incorporated a full-extension drawer where I’d keep the leveling jacks and other necessary tools. I really like this feature and it proved to be an awesome upgrade!
Since I don’t have any need for the bunk feature of that front bench, I decided to make a spot to put a cooler instead (since the icebox fridge is so small). I did however, keep space for storage on the left and right sides of the bench and those can be easily accessed by removing some lids on either side (one is under that black cushion).
One of my favorite upgrades in this Scamp trailer is the addition of the pull out drawers in the closet area. The original closet was just a big empty box. By adding these drawers in the closet, there’s so much more organization! I also cut out a new opening below the original closet door (and made another new door) and added a fifth drawer. This space is normally unused (unless there’s a air conditioner there) so adding this fifth drawer was a much better use of the space.
I replaced all the lights inside the Scamp with LED lights and it is so so so much nicer now! While I was working with the electrical stuff, I added a 2nd breaker (since there was an open slot) and added a few extra 115v outlets to use when parked at a campsite.
We also ripped out the old nasty carpet and replaced it with new carpet. It was amazing how the smell inside the trailer improved as soon as all the old carpet was thrown out. Such a huge difference! A lot of Scamp remodels we’ve seen put down pergo flooring or vinyl/laminate style flooring but we chose carpet. The other stuff looks great, but we found the carpet acts as additional sound insulation. Plus it’s much softer on the feet 🙂 Then we topped it off with a new solid oak (stained walnut) threshold.
Here’s a shot of the Scamp trailer with the rock guard in place. You might also noticed I have 2 lids on the roof. One is for the original escape hatch and the other is the new 12v 10-speed fan I installed. This was another great install because it serves multiple purposes. First it brings in the cool air from outside. Next, since it has a reverse feature, it acts as a vent for the kitchen (since the kitchen doesn’t have a built in vent). Finally, it’s a nice white noise machine for sleeping at night!
I’m sure there’s something I have forgotten to mention. The following photos are some random iPhone photos I shot along the way during various stages of the remodel. Unfortunately I didn’t photograph every single step, sorry!
Thanks for stopping by and checking out photos of my Scamp Travel Trailer update. This project was a lot of fun and all the hard work paid off when we sold the Scamp to a great new owner. If you have a travel trailer you’re updating (whether it’s a Scamp, or a Boler, or a Casita, or a Shasta, or anything else for that matter) and you’re needing some updates, please contact me. We can talk about outfitting you with some custom drawers, accessories, etc. Just let me know what you want and if it’s something I can do, w can throw around some ideas. I’d love to hear from you!
This fence style is one I’ve been wanting to build for a while. When the opportunity came up to build one for somebody, I was eager to get started. I had built a custom chicken coop for these homeowners last year but after a year of having chickens, the poop and mess was becoming an issue across their backyard and patio so the homeowners wanted a fence to keep the chickens contained in one particular area of the yard. Enter StuffSethMakes.
⬇️ ⬇️ ⬇️ JUST ADDED ⬇️ ⬇️ ⬇️
I’ve recently finished a bunch of redwood with hogwire garden trellises for our backyard. I made a whole video on the build, and it’s a fairly simple build if you have some basic tools. I hope you’ll give it a watch, and if you like it, give it a thumbs up/comment/subscribe. I appreciate you all!
I started by taking a measurement to see how long the fence needed to be. Height also needed to be considered because the chickens can actually jump pretty high. Based on the measurements, function and style, the following is what I came up with using Google Sketchup:
The design quickly got the homeowner’s approval and I went to work picking up the redwood fence materials, concrete, gate hardware and of course, the welded wire hog fence product. I LOVE this hog fence/welded wire stuff. It’s thick and sturdy and it looks really cool and it’s not the cheap galvanized stuff. The hole pattern on this particular welded wire fencing is the 3-inch hole pattern, which is actually about 2.8-inches when you take into account the thickness of the metal. Being a one of a kind custom build, there were a couple little obstacles to overcome but a little brainstorming and problem solving and the job is done and it looks awesome and does exactly what it’s supposed to do. Over time, the redwood will weather (even with the Thompson’s Water Seal product I used) and the metal fence will rust, giving it a really cool look. I also used a spring-loaded gate latch cable pull for easy unlatching. In the last photo you can see the chicken coop I built for these homeowners last year. Still going strong and the chickens are popping out more eggs than they know what to do with! 🙂 Enjoy the photos!
Quick Update:
I recently built some garden trellises for my wife using this same hogwire and redwood style. I built the trellises as an anniversary gift and the redwood I used was from a raised garden bed we weren’t going to use anymore. You can see the build in the following video…feel free to use the time stamps in the video description to jump to the trellis build! You can also subscribe to my YouTube channel as I will be having more hogwire projects coming in the near future.
PLEASE NOTE:
This fence was a custom build for this particular space. I do not offer build plans or Sketchup files for this fence (for free or for sale), or provide specific measurement/dimensions/etc.
If you’re in SoCal and you’re interested in hiring me to build a custom fence like this one for your space, be sure to use my contact page and shoot over an inquiry with details about your project and we can go from there. Serious inquiries only. Thanks!
If you’re interested in seeing another awesome DIY backyard project, check out this pergola build I helped my father-in-law with….it’s so nice to have shade in his backyard now. Click this text to jump out to the video or click on the thumbnail below!
I’ve been wanting to make some cutting boards for a while now and I thought Christmas gifts would be the perfect reason to finally buckle down and do it. Being that it was the end of the year, my wife and I were super slammed with stuff for Zelo Photography (which is our full time photography business) and I wasn’t going to have the time to assemble my new Ridgid Jointer, and I didn’t have a dedicated planer yet. Fortunately, we were out of town to meet with one of our awesome wedding couples and it just so happened that there was a Rockler Woodworking store a couple miles away. I needed to pick up a couple items anyway, so we popped in and that’s when I saw the Rockler cutting board kits! The kits come with various species of wood and the boards are all jointed and planed (for the most part) and all you need to do is glue them together and sand them smooth and you’re done! Well….that’s how they’re intended to be assembled. I on the other hand, had to mix it up a bit 🙂
Instead of simply glueing the boards together, I decided to mix and match all the boards from the various kits and come up with one of a kind layouts. Now no cutting board will be the same! If that wasn’t enough, I decided to throw in another twist and incorporate plugs made out of recycled skateboards. I wanted to give these cutting boards a personal touch and since my brother and I were skateboarders back in the day, I felt it was only right to pay homage this way. Then I customized these cutting board kits even further by adding cutouts on the bottom edges for finger clearance so it’s easier to pick up the cutting boards from kitchen counter or table. And last but not least I wanted to make sure the recipients of these cutting boards would never forget where they got the cutting board so I branded the Stuff Seth Makes logo using a mini branding iron I got from a seller on Etsy.
In the end, it still took a lot of time to put these cutting boards together. And even though it was a pretty basic kit, I had already gained a lot of knowledge from so many fellow woodworkers in the social media world, one of which is Brad at Fix This Build That who shared a great tip for raising the grain of the wood. You’ll see that tip in the video below. All in all, I’m super happy with how the cutting boards came out and I hope the recipients will get a lot of good use out of them….although they’re so pretty they might just end up as decor, haha!
During the process of putting together these cutting boards, I videotaped the whole thing and edited what I think is a pretty cool video that I’m really happy with. As a photographer, I’m usually the one behind the camera, so this was a bit out of my comfort zone. But everything is a learning experience, right? I’ve already started working on a couple new videos and I feel like my screen presence is already improving. Here’s the cutting board video and I hope you enjoy it!
Stuff Seth Makes specializes in woodworking and is known for creating unique handmade home decor items as well as custom rustic and modern style furniture. Based in Escondido, California but available for nationwide commissions.